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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.